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A cloud of pot smoke filled the car as it headed to LAX to pick up a friend. Roger McGuinn sat behind the wheel of the '67 Pontiac, Chris Hillman sat shotgun, and next to Clarence White, resting in the back seat was the man known only as Manuel. After picking up their friend, who was dressed in a black suit, polka dot shirt and black-framed sunglasses, this wild bunch of Rock & Roller's began their journey back to Nudie’s Rodeo Tailors. The car was fueled with friendship, laughter and smoke. A bang interrupted the laughter and a flat tire sidelined the car on the LA Freeway. Mr. Polka Dot immediately turned, and looking at Manuel said, “Who is gonna fix the flat man?” Manuel retorted, “Someone is going to get out, get the jack and fix the fucking flat.” You see Manuel being of Mexican decent felt offended that he was the one asked to do something about the flat tire. McGuinn and the others were losing their minds. How dare Manuel speak to Mr. Polka Dot that way? In the end, they all got out, fixed the flat, and then drove Manuel back to Nudie's. A week later Mr. Polka Dot walked into Nudie’s and apologized to Manuel for his remark. Over 40 years later, they are still doing business together. When Bob Dylan played for the Pope, appears on stage or has his picture on the cover of Rolling Stone Magazine, the only thing he likes to wear was Manuel Couture. Manuel has designed clothes for the Rat Pack, James Dean, four presidents, Elvis, Elizabeth Taylor, Johnny Cash, Porter Wagoner, George Jones, Waylon Jennings, The Rolling Stones, The Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, Salvador Dali, Dolly Parton, Elton John, Emmylou Harris, Gram Parsons, Loretta Lynn, Bebe Buell and Jack White. Chances are if they are somebody they have worn Manuel Couture at some point in their career. John Lennon on his famous lost weekend spent many a day with Manuel reflecting on his life and his future plans. In fact, on the day John was killed he was photographed by Annie Leibovitz, wearing boots Manuel made for him in 1973. Manuel has always spent his evenings in the company of friends. One of his best friends and confidant was Salvador Dali. You see Manuel designed two shirts for Dali, he wore those shirts every day for over two years. Dali loved the flowers that were embroidered on his shirt. He asked Manuel, “What country do these beautiful flowers come from?” Manuel looked at Dali and pointed with his index finger to his head. It was at the induction of one of his designs into the Smithsonian Institute that one gets a true understanding of Manuel’s genius and simplicity. As the curator held up a beat up leather jacket and announced to the crowd “We are pleased to induct the Fonz’s jacket into our museum.” Manuel whispers to his female companion “Who is the Fonz? I made that jacket for my friend Henry.” Let’s find out what the man who designed the original mask for the Lone Ranger has to say about all things Rock & Roll. |
Punk Globe: You have created so many designs. Which is your favorite?
Manuel: My next one.
Manuel: Colonel Tom Parker had brought $10,000, a young man and requested I make something special for him. I immediately thought gold and so I designed a unique piece made from gold lame. The day the Colonel and Elvis came to pick up the suit they brought with them several press people to photograph the occasion. I wasn’t thinking and thought I must press the suit and with that the gold lame just wrinkled like the face of a modern Keith Richards. I did not say anything and Elvis walked out of the dressing room and the famous photograph was taken that has been used countless times since. You see even mistakes can be turned into gold. By the way, can you tell me who made the money in the California Gold Rush? It was the man who sold the picks & shovels.
Manuel: James Dean was a talented, introspective and highly intelligent young man and I designed his Jacket in Rebel Without a Cause and much of the wardrobe in the film Giant. The 50’s were an amazing time for me I had arrived in LA and my first work was making suits for Frank Sinatra and the rest of the Rat Pack. This was before I went to design for Nudie. One time someone said, “Manuel you have designed for everyone but Jesus.” I thought for a moment and said you are wrong I made his robe in the movie The Robe. A lot of people don’t realize I studied with Edith Head and worked on over a 150 films and countless TV shows.
Manuel: The 60’s were like the peace sign and woman were allowed to be free for the first time. I think everyone enjoyed themselves it was the age of peace and love in everyway. I was so fortunate for the talent was amazing. I designed several pieces made from leather for a rising star named Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and my friend Gram Parsons were among many clients at this time. Gram and I discussed his suit in detail for several months before I committed it to fabric. It wasn’t until years later looking back that I realized he wanted me to design the suit the way he would want to die. From the pills, the woman, the cross, the poppies to the flames on the pants and of course in the end his body went up in flames in Joshua Tree with our friend Phil Kaufman. Keith Richards I had met through Gram and I designed for him on the '69 and '72 tours, and by 1975 I couldn’t make big enough bell-bottoms for him. Keith Richards was one of the only people Nudie ever turned down to have me design for. Keith wanted a pink suit with penises all over it. I would have made it my way, but Nudie refused his request. I sometimes think my designs must make people feel like they are a superhero. A good example of this can be seen in the movie Gimme Shelter when Keith Richards confronts the crowd even though he has been told someone has a gun pointed at the stage. Kevin what do you think my cloths do? “When one is on stage, on screen or on a date with a lover and they feel that can't make it through the next line or chord of a song your clothes will carry to the finish line every time.” That is the correct answer my brother. Elvis always understood that and when he wanted something for his '68 comeback special or when he started his run in Las Vegas I did my best to complement him. I really went out on a limb when I decided to make him his first three jump suits. Those suits have disappeared in history for the Colonel took my designs to another tailor who then mass-produced several suits. The original ones I made have never been seen since, however the image is now in history.
Manuel: One time I was backstage at the LA Forum with the Grateful Dead and the police were banging at the door. The Dead looked at me and said what should we do for there is every substance known to man in here and a few some don’t even know. I thought for a moment and said to the girls take your shirts off. When the police entered the dressing room they forgot what they were looking for.
Manuel: I have lost many friends to the second and a few have gone down over the first as for Rock & Roll it keeps me busy and I love seeing new talent.
Punk Globe: What kind of image do you feel one should bring to the stage?
Manuel: I feel sorry for the audience when I see guys up on stage looking like they just pumped gas and grabbed a guitar. The stage no matter how large or small is Greek theater in the end and the players should give their audience something special. I always say it doesn’t matter what kind of car you drive, what matters is what you look like when you get out. Remember first impressions are very important and I believe people go to a show to see a STAR or at least someone who is reaching for the stars.
Manuel: I love them all, Linda Ronstadt, Emmylou Harris, Dolly Parton, Loretta Lynn, Elizabeth Taylor, Bebe Buell, Rachel Welch and I used to enjoy cutting the blue jeans for Catherine Bach when she played Daisy Duke. There are just so many for I have been blessed to work with the most beautiful woman in the world. A secret in life is that all women are beautiful flowers.
Manuel: Everything and I am blessed to have many friends here. I so enjoy when my brother Marty Stuart comes by and we get to share stories of our travels.
Punk Globe: Speaking of travels can you tell us some of the wonderful places your work has taken you?
Manuel: I have been around the world and back my friend many times, but Morelia Mexico always holds a special place in my heart for it is my land. I named my daughter Morelia.
Manuel: James Dean, John Wayne, Richard Burton, Marlon Brando etc…. Oh yes! Marlon and I used to have many great conversations he was an amazing talent, but more important a good friend to have an intellectual interchange with over tequila. You know something about 60% of my clients are just people who enjoy my work.
Punk Globe: If one wanted a Manuel design what would they need to do?
Manuel: My shop is open 6 days a week here in Nashville. I am always happy to design for a new face and make a new friend. Life is all about friendships.
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